To locate Bank I and Bank II, consult your vehicle service manual, if necessary. The same goes for the other cylinder head-on V-type engines-which is considered Bank II. A bank I, sensor 2, points to the sensor on the same side but farther down the exhaust system, probably right before or after the catalytic converter. For example, you may get a Bank I, sensor 1 at fault, which points to the O2 sensor on or near the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head that contains cylinder number 1. $103 shipped from Rock Auto was easier to justify than the $120+ Toyota one.When you retrieve diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) from your car computer, you may also get information about the specific sensor at fault, depending on your scan tool features. Used the Denso direct fit sensor rather than the Toyota boxed Denso sensor, they are identical except for the etched printing on the sensor bodies. I'll be checking the next few fill up to see if that is the case. So if this sensor really has a 50,000 mile service interval, I may see an improvement. The mpg isn't what it used to be and well beyond the winter blend fuel change. My '07 and the original O2 sensor has 160,099 miles on it. The exhaust was sort of warmed up but luckily the sensor loosened right up and had no stripped threads. Although there was not much room to swing the wrench so next time I'll get one of those sockets. I did not have the fancy offset sockets but was able to use a 22mm box/open wrench. Removing that axleshaft shield improved the working room. I just changed the front O2 sensor in my '07 hatch while I was under there doing the oil/filter change. After I started the car there was some smoke coming off the pipes as the lubricant burn off.Īuxmike, thanks for the write up and tips!! WD40 is a lot better than it gets credit for. Having them all lets you switch between them as needed. Some show a few variations of tools you can use to turn that stubborn sensor. If you don't remove this plate first don't bother attempting the job. Remove the nut from the right side and the bolt from the left side using a 12mm dep socket. There's a black metal plate that's bolted onto the engine just above the axel boot.
After hearing how members trying to remove these top units were unable to, I wonder if they used heat to open up the threads first, or if I got REAL lucky taking the risk getting it out without hiring a mechanic.
TOYOTA YARIS O2 SENSOR WIRING CRACK
I only needed a 3/8 drive ratchet with the shorter cast steel tool to crack it loose. The top one was done using the same technique. The sensors connector plug is INSIDE the car, you will need to remove the center consol to unplug it and feed the new wires in. It was SO much easier with a hot pipe! There are pics showing how bad the threads were stripped on that lower sensor, damage from working with a cold pipe and almost snapping off the sensor. I rocked the tool back and fourth as I got it to start turning while continuing with little shots of the WD40. I tried again the next night with a hot exhaust and spraying some WD40 on the point where the sensor meets the threaded bung. I started by trying to remove the lower sensor with a cold exhaust and it turned about half a turn even using a large pipe wrench AND a floor jack to push up on the darn wrench! It would not turn.Period. Upon running the car and getting things hot the job moved quickly. I learned real fast that doing this with cold pipes is futile. I was able to successfully change out both my AF Sensor and the lower oxygen/O2 sensor. If you get stuck, you may need to hire a mechanic to to fix your mess, $$$. Do this at your own risk! You can get burned and really screw up your car trying to remove these parts. This is just a pictorial of what you will see and what I used to do the job.
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